Desire x Defiance. Celebrating 25 years of eg. etal
“Yearning”
by Susan Ewington
Melbourne’s iconic jeweller, EG ETAL presents a exhibition of jewellery celebrating the gallery’s 25th year. To mark this amazing anniversary, a collection of e.g.etal artists have each created a piece of jewellery that exists at the intersection of defiance and desire.
Susan elaborates on her piece “Yearning”…
“I've had this incredibly rare piece of Chrysoberyl in my collection for a few years, and I knew it needed to be made into something significant.
The shape of it has always reminded me of a snake head, and the concept of desire and defiance is intrinsically linked throughout history with the snake. I didn't want to make anything that was overtly snake-like, but rather hint at certain elements such as the florentine texture, the talon prongs in the mouth position, the blood red of the garnet, and the use of the serpentine-like snake chain.
The symbol of the snake is not new, it has been symbolised in story, art and object for thousands of years, but I wanted to try and capture the essence of it rather than displaying an overt motif, to defy the obvious.
The hinge mechanism within the ‘arms’ of the pendant allows for the piece to be seen and worn from two slightly different viewpoints, which means the pendant can be worn with the garnet either at the top or the bottom of the pendant.”
Scroll down to see the video of this special piece in the making
Materials and fabrication details:
18ct yellow gold. Mixed bezel and claw set natural ombre toned Chrysoberyl 3.20ct shield portrait cut by Laura Phillis (SA).
Bezel set natural Australian garnet, 3mm round antique style single cut cut by Paul Fenselau (VIC).
Australian made snake chain with hand carved snake motif S clasp.
Pendant shoulders Florentine engraved with hinged mechanism to reverse pendant layout.
'A piece that looks to the past but also forges into the future'.
‘A piece that defies accepted ways of seeing, making and wearing.'
From the gallery…
“At e.g.etal, we take an unconventional approach to adornment,” said Chelsea Gough, e.g.etal’s director. “Whether it be a ring with a hidden diamond that no one sees, a ‘gemstone’ made out of a kitchen bench material, jewels made from perforated steel or cast from molten forms.”
This defiant approach has rebelliously prevailed for a quarter of a century, with the gallery now representing over 55 artists from Australia and New Zealand. Over the last 25 years, e.g.etal has adorned thousands of people with pieces that challenge accepted ways of seeing, making and wearing.
Desire / defiance exhibit will run from 2nd – 23rd November 2023.
An opening event will be held at e.g.etal gallery on Thursday 2nd Nov from 5pm-7pm
All works will be available for purchase.
See the full online catalogue for Desire / Defiance here
150 Little Collins Street
Melbourne 3000
Victoria Australia
info@egetal.com.au
+61 3 9639 5111
“Yearning” by Susan Ewington
Desire x Defiance Celebrating 25 years of Eg .Etal
